The Story
When Saladin liberated Jerusalem and Al-Aqsa Mosque in 1187, the locals celebrated his victory in the courtyards of the mosque and honored him with a dish called Badinjaniya: fried eggplant with cooked rice.
They flipped the pot over in front of him, and he liked it and thanked them. He then asked them to bring another pot, which he flipped himself.
This is how the dish got its name: Maqluba, meaning “upside-down” in Arabic. Over the centuries it evolved, and many other ingredients and vegetables found their way in. Today it is made across all of Palestine, each family with their own layering, their own spices, and their own way of holding their breath as the pot is flipped.
Maqluba is made from Nablus to Gaza, from Jerusalem to the villages of the Galilee. Every family has their own version: the layering order, the vegetables chosen, and the weight of cinnamon in the broth.
How to Make It
Soak the rice
Rinse the rice thoroughly, then soak it in cold water for at least 30 minutes. This helps the grains cook evenly and keeps them from clumping together in the pot.
Cook the meat
Place the chicken pieces, or cubed lamb, in a large pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, skimming any foam that rises. Season with salt, black pepper, and cinnamon. Simmer until fully cooked through. Reserve the broth; you will need 5 cups of it.
Fry the vegetables
In a separate pan with oil, fry each vegetable separately: the eggplant slices, the cauliflower, the carrots, and the potato rounds. Fry until golden and set aside on paper towels. Season lightly with salt as you go.
Layer the pot
In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, arrange the fried eggplant slices in a circular pattern across the bottom. Layer the potatoes on top, then the meat, followed by the carrots and cauliflower. Finally, spread the soaked and drained rice evenly over everything.
Add broth and cook
Pour 5 cups of the reserved chicken broth over the rice. Bring to a boil over medium-low heat. Once boiling, reduce the heat to very low, cover tightly, and cook for one hour undisturbed. Do not lift the lid.
The flip
Remove the pot from the heat and let it rest for 10 minutes. Place a large serving platter firmly over the top of the pot. In one confident motion, take a breath, then flip the pot upside down onto the platter. Lift the pot slowly to reveal the dish. Serve immediately with yogurt or a simple salad.